Around Lisbon
What an enchanting city Lisbon is with its pastel coloured buildings and friendly people. Small enough to explore on foot but with trams, metro and a funicular railway available when our legs are weary.
For the best views, we head up to the Castelo de Sao Jorge, built by the Moors in the 11th century. It is quite a steep climb but the ancient district of Alfama at the base of the castle, with its maze of narrow streets and twisted alleyways, is well worth exploring. We occasionally take the wrong turn but that only adds to its charm.
Neighbour chatting to neighbour, kids kicking a ball, washing hanging out to dry from windows high above the street..... We find the main entrance to the castelo and spend some time wandering through the archeological area there in the warm sunshine. We catch one of the famous old fashioned yellow trams back down the hill to the city and out to the Belem Tower fortress built in the 16th century right on the water's edge. Along with the Jeronimos Monastery nearby, it is one of the most photographed sights in Lisbon and there are plenty of keen photographers like me there!
Less than an hour west of Lisbon is the town of Sintra, the traditional summer retreat of Portuguese royalty and a perfect day trip from Lisbon. The wealthy nobility also holidayed here as did writers such as Lord Byron so there are many palaces and manor houses dotted around. We decide to explore Pena Palace which was the summer residence of the royal family. Sintra is set high up in the hills above Lisbon but Pena Palace sits right at the very top of the hill above Sintra.
It reminds me a little of Sleeping Beauty's castle in Disneyland, an absolutely gorgeous over-the-top multicoloured affair with turrets and ramparts, chapel and clock tower in pretty hues of pink, yellow, grey and tan. It is fascinating both inside and out with its Moorish architecture and wall tiling. It has been left very much as it was when the monarchy was exiled in 1910 so there are many personal touches such as photographs and books still lying around. Especially while in the living room, I feel I am prying into another family's home. I am expecting them to enter any moment.
As I stand on the sunny terrace outside, I can imagine the family sitting there having tea, looking over the balcony towards Lisbon and enjoying the stunning view all the way to the sea.
Two hours north of Lisbon is the tiny medieval walled town of Obidos, another perfect day trip from Lisbon. Our first view of Obidos is a picture of white houses with orange roofs contrasting beautifully with the dark stone city walls which wrap around around them. From the bus stop, we head towards the town gate which was built in 1380. Just inside is the Oratory of Our Lady of Piety. - an open chapel. It is decorated in Portuguese style - blue and white tiles and an ornate painted ceiling. Sitting in the corner is a little old lady crocheting doilies. "Ave Maria" is playing softly in the background. Through the archway and around the corner we are confronted with the loveliest vista of white walls overhung with bright pink and purple bougainvillea, pots of flowers hanging near doorways and windows, stands of postcards, colourful aprons and table linen piled on tables and an amazing assortment of plates hanging on the walls outside the shops - blue and white, some with yellow, and a vast array of patterns. Some are floral, some are of birds, some are of windmills..... I will never forget that vista.
Obidos has one main street with lots of little alleyways leading off it higgledy-piggledy. Outside one of the tiny shops is a lady selling rd wine in little cups made of dark chocolate! €1 each. I drink the wine and eat the chocolate cup! Absolutely delicious! I go back for another... We find a restaurant for lunch. The tables outside are all full but the lady directs us up some narrow stairs. At the top is a wide sunny terrace with small tables set under white umbrellas. Bright purple bougainvillea is cascading down the walls. We have some tasty soup and freshly baked bread. It is so relaxing and comfortable where we are that it is very hard to leave! Obidos is so well preserved that it is possible to do a complete circuit of the city on top of the walls!
We walk part of the way around the wall but it is incredibly high off the ground, there are no railings and the wall is not even a metre wide! Meeting people walking in the opposite direction is a challenge, especially when we estimate we are at least 8 to 10 metres above the ground! The views from the walls are magnificent. Lush green countryside and vineyards everywhere. As we are well above the houses in the town, we can clearly see in the backyards... people enjoying a long lunch, two little boys playing together, a lady sweeping her patio..
There are plenty of museums and churches to explore, there is a horse-drawn carriage for a romantic drive through the narrow streets and it's possible to spend hours in the tiny shops. Back in Lisbon, we sit in the large foyer of our hotel and enjoy a glass of the complementary juice which is provided every day. We have loved every minute of our time in Lisbon and the surrounding area. Now for another glass of that superb local red wine...........