"Can I help you?" spoken in perfect English. We're standing just outside Krakow Glowny station a little unsure whether to walk straight ahead or turn right. "We are staying at Red Brick Apartments", I said, showing the young man the address. "Oh, then turn right here and then next left." And with that, he hurried off. His directions are perfect and a few minutes later we are checking in to our apartment. A quick cup of tea and we are ready to explore! We walk out of reception, around the corner and across the road. In front of us is the Barbican, built in 1498 and the historic fortified entrance to the city. Buskers are playing. Beautiful old buildings line the street which leads us to the traditional market square in the centre of the Old Town. There are horse-drawn carriages for a romantic ride around the city, primary school children in fluro coloured jackets on a school excursion, and busy shoppers weaving in and out of small tour groups. Our walk takes us as far as Wawel Castle and the beautiful Gothic cathedral. The castle is now a museum while the cathedral has nearly 20 chapels and a Royal Crypt, burial place of most of the kings, queens and their children. We finish up at The Cracow Handmade Chocolate shop where we order a hot chocolate each. I buy what I think is dark chocolate with mint but it turns out to be salted chocolate! I must Google the Polish word for "mint". We walk back to our apartment and change our clothes. We are attending a Chopin concert at the Legendary Wierzynek followed by dinner at the Tradycja Restaurant next door. We walk into the Renaissance Chamber and there are only 4 people attending. The pianist is outstanding and we enjoy an hour of music, almost entirely of Chopin. We are offered a glass of wine at intermission. The three course menu offered by the restaurant is a mix of Polish and Italian and is delicious. . We have 3 days to spend in Krakow and the Krakow in your pocket Guidebook, provided by reception, is proving invaluable. I discove the free walking tour team and we decide to join the Jewish Krakow tour. We meet in the main square in front of St Mary's church at 11am. There are about 20 people in the group. Kazimierz is the old Jewish Quarter and is where the Jews of Krakow lived for over 500 years. Our guide is excellent, stopping regularly to point out the main sights and tell us many stories of life over the years. He names the synagogues as we pass them, shows us where Helena Rubenstein, the "Queen of Cosmetics" was born and then points out where parts of the film "Schindler's List" were filmed. He also gave us tips on finding the nightlife in Krakow and the best drinking holes. Altogether a most enjoyable couple of hours. After the Holocaust, there were less than 5000 Jews left in Krakow, many saved by Oskar Schindler whose factory we walked across the river to see. It is near Podgorze, the former Jewish Ghetto. There are still a couple of sections of the original ghetto wall where flowers are regularly left in remembrance of those who died. Auschwitz, 75 km west of Krakow, is a full day's trip. We booked an organised tour to avoid the queues. Auschwitz is visually confronting and the narrative of the guide is relentless. After walking through the entrance gate, the tour starts at Block 4. Many of the walls in several blocks carry the mug shots of prisoners, their heads shaven and wearing prison uniform. One room is full of human hair ready to be made into material for the manufacture of German uniforms. Another block has a room full of the suitcases of prisoners, many engraved with names or initials while another room is full of shoes, yet another spectacles and shaving brushes. Apart from the guides, most people are silent, many finding it hard to take in the absolute depravity that existed in other human beings. Block 11 is known as "The Death Block" and for me it is an indescribable horror. We finish our tour at the gas chamber and crematoria before being bussed to Birkenau, a couple of kilometres away. The train tracks are still in place with a couple of the carriages which transported the prisoners to the camp. It is unbelievable to me the cruelty that can be carried out by one human being on another. It was a sombre drive back to Krakow but important to reflect and remember. There is a Salt Mine only a half hour bus ride from Krakow, markets to explore and more museums to visit but I will have to do that next trip. Three days just isn't long enough!