Steps again!  Hundreds of steps!!  Yesterday was a rest day.  Today we are walking to the towns on the northern side of Corniglia. Corniglia to Vernazza is 4km and takes an hour and a half while Vernazza to Monterosso is 3km and takes 2 hours. Up the steps again, step after step after step! The walk from Corniglia to Vernazza has not been officially opened yet but people are walking it anyway. The path is narrow and we stop periodically to let others past or else they stop for us. Most of the track isn't wide enough for two. There are lots of places to stop and take photos as we go higher and higher. It is very hazy today. All of a sudden, two helicopters appear, flying together. They circle a section of the sea. Then one of them descends so close to the sea that it churns up the water while the other circles above it. The lower one risies up level with his mate and they fly off. Five minutes later they return and repeat the exercise. We decide the pilot circling is training the pilot skimming the surface. Eventually they both fly off, probably to the great relief of the ferry which was passing not too far from the choppy water. We finish climbing stairs and the path levels out. There are many people walking the trail in the reverse direction today but it is a perfect day for it - warm and sunny. Corniglia has become so tiny in the distance and around the bend we can see the fortress sitting prominently on the cliff above Vernazza.

It was built in the fifteenth century as a lookout for pirates. Vernazza is crowded and busy. Several tour groups are walking around, the guides holding up brightly coloured umbrellas to be seen by their group. First stop is the top of the castle where we can see up and down the coast. Below us there are people swimming in the little harbour. There are 319 steps from the top of the tower down into Vernazza! We find a bar with tables outside and eat a simple lunch. Then off again to Monterosso, the largest of the five Cinque Terre villages. We have to pay for this walk. This path would be the narrowest in some sections of the four walks we have done and begins with a climb. After about twenty minutes of going straight up, the path levels out for a while. Then down and up and down again! We cross a couple of creeks and a landslide! "Thanks mate" says my husband to a man who helps me down a very steep set of steps. "Sure buddy" he replies. Typical Aussie/Yankie camaraderie. My legs are feeling rather weary and I am SO over steps. We arrive in Monterosso and walk through the town towards the station. There are two beaches in Monterosso each set up with umbrellas and deck chairs for hire. Lying on dark grey sand and pebbles doesn't really inspire me because we are so spoilt in Australia with our beautiful beaches. Again, the village is very busy. As we near the station, people scurry past us with luggage. Obviously new arrivals. We just miss a train back to Corniglia but there is another in 15 minutes. It is only two stops and ten minutes back to Corniglia. I stand in the vestibule instead of sitting even though there are plenty of seats. My legs are so weary I am frightened I won't be able to get back up again and I have 380 steps to walk up from Corniglia station to the town and then another 53 up to our 3rd floor apartment! A gelato is calling............ For more information see www.cinqueterre.eu.com