Strahan, Tasmania
It's a picture perfect day as we walk to the visitor centre on the harbour in Strahan. A handful of boats are anchored in the sheltered waters. In the visitor centre, the ladies book us on the "Spirit of the Wild" with Gordon River cruises. "The weather is looking quite good tomorrow", they tell us. "Maybe a little overcast but no rain." We are celebrating our first interstate holiday since Covid began so we book the premium deck for our full day cruise. Leather reclining seats with full length windows and all meals, snacks and beverages, including beer and wine are included. We board just after 8am. Breakfast is set out at the bar, a delicious selection of yoghurt, granola, fresh fruit, pastries and muffins. Macquarie Harbour, 35km long and 9km wide, is Australia's second largest natural harbour after Port Phillip Bay in Victoria, six times the size of Sydney Harbour. Yet the entrance to the harbour is only 120m wide, narrow, shallow and very dangerous.
We sail through the heads, named Hell's Gates by the convicts, and out into the Indian Ocean. Our skilled captain makes it look easy. As I watch the waves wash over the rocks which are just visible above the cold, dark water, I think of the shipwrecks that occurred here and of the frightened people on those boats. Two lighthouses stand prominently at the entrance to the harbour. Out on the deck, the Roaring Forties are living up to their name. It is almost impossible for me to stand upright without holding on to the railing. Trying to hold my camera and take a photo in between gusts is quite a challenge! We turn around and return to the calm waters of Macquarie Harbour. Standing at the rear of the boat, I'm fascinated by the dark brown water of the harbour. It's the colour of black tea. This is because the water in this part of Tasmania is very high in tannin, exactly the same as in tea.
The Gordon River
We head towards the mouth of the Gordon River, passing salmon and ocean trout fish farms on the way and enjoying mid-morning canapés with coffee as we go. The ship's electric motors mean we travel in near silence. It is so quiet and still as we glide up the river. An enormous eagle perches in a tree watching us pass by. Huon pines are pointed out to us as we travel through the beautiful rainforest. We are reminded that we are breathing some of the purest air on the planet in this pristine Tasmanian wilderness.
Heritage Landing
At Heritage Landing, we disembark and follow the boardwalk through the temperate rain forest and past ancient Huon pines. It is incredibly damp. Moss grows everywhere. Fungi grows on the branches of trees. I'm glad I'm wearing a jacket. I think of the prisoners in thin prison clothes living and working in this cold, damp environment and shiver. As if to remind us of the constant dampness, the seats which have been built partway along the boardwalk are wet. One of the tour guides tells us they are always too wet to sit on! Nothing ever dries!
Back on the boat, we head back down the Gordon river towards Macquarie Harbour where we will step ashore at Sarah Island. On the way we enjoy a delicious lunch prepared by one of the local chefs.
Sarah Island
Hell's Gates were so named because this was the entrance to the harbour where Sarah Island was situated. Known as the harshest and cruellest of all the penal colonies, Sarah Island was constructed by the British for the worst of its convicts, usually repeat offenders or captured escapees from other penal settlements. It was chosen because of its sheer isolation and difficulty of escape. Not only did escapees have to cross the harbour but then hack their way through thick wet rainforest all the way to Hobart. The west coast of Tasmania bears the brunt of the roaring 40s winds with gusts reaching 200km/h. The average annual rainfall is around 2m. Floggings were common, rations were scarce and the wet, windy freezing weather made for a horrrific existence. A number of escapes did take place, the most famous being that of Alexander Pearce who escaped twice and survived by eating his companions. Recaptured both times, he was hanged in Hobart on a charge of murder and cannibalism. The British had commenced logging up the Gordon River and the convicts worked felling Huon pines and floating them down river. They were constantly wet from their work. It was these brutal and horrific conditions which drove many men to commit murder just so they could be executed on the gallows to escape. The island however became one of the best boat building shipyards in Australia with many of the convicts developing excellent boat building skills put to good use on their release.
The Ruins of Sarah Island
Stepping ashore on Sarah Island today, I find it hard to imagine the brutality that happened here two hundred years ago. There are very few ruins are left on the island, the bush has regrown and the vegetation is so lush. But the dampness and the cold are everpresent. Our tour guide is Franz, one of the actors from the Round Earth company, and he entertained us with history and many stories of these brutal times. There are no intact buildings left, only some brick foundations. The bread oven is almost intact, the new penitentiary has walls and a chimney left and there are remnants of the solitary confinement cells - the size of a grave and bitterly cold. The 8 or so women convicts were housed on Grommet Rock just off Sarah Island where they slept in a cave and were rowed across to Sarah Island every day for work. The chilly wind picks up a bit and I put my hands in my pockets to keep them warm as I make my way back to the boat, glad I wasn't a convict.
Sailing back into Strahan, we enjoyed afternoon tea of fresh cakes and slices, cheese and crackers, wine, tea and coffee.
This cruise would rate one of the best days out in our travels all around the world. Stunning scenery, a plentiful supply of delicious food, excellent service from start to finish, nothing ever felt rushed and so well organised. The day just flowed perfectly. For more information and a map of the journey, visit www.gordonrivercruises.com.au
The Round Earth Company
"You're late," we shouted. "You're late," we yell even louder. We are sitting in the little theatre on the Esplanade in Strahan. The performance of "The Ship That Never Was" is about to commence and audience participation is actively encouraged! In fact, apart from the two regular actors, the rest of the cast is made up of volunteers from the audience. After all our practice, no one turns up late tonight and the show begins.
Let the Fun Begin
For the next hour and a quarter we cheered and booed, laughed and yelled. The play is the true story of the last great escape from Sarah Island. In January 1834, the Frederick was the last ship built by the convicts at Sarah Island. It was designed to take the last remaining prisoners and staff to the new penal colony at Port Arthur. However ten convict shipbuilders had other ideas. They hijacked the ship and managed to sail it to Chile in south America! A truly fun night for all visitors to Strahan. Performances are held from September to May and occasionally during winter. Check the website www.roundearth.com.au.
And for a treat afterwards, head to the IGA supermarket for a couple of tubs of Valhalla Icecream, the local Tasmanian speciality. Mmmmm......
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